Plan... What is it?
|Yes, there is
more to a garage plan than a map of how to arrange the pieces
What should a garage plan
consist of and how should you go about putting together your garage plan.
If you plan to purchase a set of garage plans and build your own
structure, read the fine print. If you see ("...plans
do NOT carry a structural engineer or architect's stamp/seal.")
use caution or look elsewhere. Plans should be designed pacifically for
your area (such as snow loads, wind loads, seismic zones, etc) and have a
engineer or architect's seal. You are investing a great deal of time and
money to enhance the value and beauty of your property. If you don't do it
properly the outcome could have a negative effect on your property. Let's
face it... the old $2500 garage is a thing of the past just like the $2500
dollar auto. An Expert could Save you a Great deal in the long run.
First let us look at
the options... not the garage options but the location options of your
Possible locations for your
- Where on the lot could your put
your garage that would give you the best access. Is there room beside
your house, behind your house, enter from the street, enter from the
alley? Do you live in the country or in the city, middle lot or corner
- What are the set backs. (Distance
from the street or lot lines that you can build) Check your local
- How level is the lot location you
picked for your new garage. The more the slope the more it will cost
for the garage floor. See
- How long is the driveway going to
be. Cost is by the square foot.
- Is there enough room to get your
car in and out of the garage. Your garage plan should include at least
23 to 30 feet straight back before turning. (Your car must be completely
out of the garage before turning). Example: a garage plan with a 2 car
garage behind a house with a narrow drive along the side of the house
will need the garage set back far enough to allow the inside car room
to exit the garage before turning to the drive so as to clear the
- Distance from the house... more
is better... fires are more likely to start in the garage.
- Utilities: have your utilities
marked, don't wait until you are ready to dig... a good garage
plan will include having the utilities marked in the planning stage.
This is normally a free service in most states, check with your local
utility company. You will also need to check for other buried obstacles
that might have been buried by the present or past home owners, such
as under ground wires, pipes, septic tanks, etc.
- Trees: The roots from trees can
crack your garage footings and floors. Some trees like maples have
roots that grow out near the surface while most fruit trees have a
root system that will grow more downward. Stay away from all trees at
least 6 to 8 feet from the outside of the trunk. You may have to have
stumps ground out and removed. Do not pour a garage floor over stumps,
they will root and your floor will crack if they are not removed.
- Look up for tree branches and
utility lines that may have to be removed or moved if your chosen
garage plan is put into action.
for your garage plan...
Size... the garage
plan is now ready to determine the possible sizes that you can choose
- Choose a garage size that you
would like to have and see if there is enough room in the areas
(1 car 14ft wide),
(1 1/2 car 16ft wide),
(2 car 20, 22ft wide),
(2 1/2 car 24, 26ft wide),
(3 car 28ft wide),
(3 1/2 car 30, 32, 36ft wide)
(20 ft minimum -for a full size car).
(24 ft - for an ext cab full bed pick up).
(20 ft - for a car only with no extra room front or back of car).
(22 ft - room to open trunk).
(24 ft - room in front for a bench and room to open trunk).
(28 or 30 ft - room for shop area in front of car).
- Height: 8 ft walls are normal
with a 7 ft high OHD. However if you require a higher overhead door
you will need to increase the wall height, 8 ft OHD will require a 9 ft wall, etc.
|The garage plan
is ready for you to pick a Style
Garage plan styles include;
roof pitch, siding type, color, overhead door type, service doors,
windows, shingle type and color, over hangs on eve and gable, etc. (Garage
doors include service or entry doors for people and overhead doors for
- Overhead door(s) Choose a
location on the wall and choose a wall, gable end or eve side,
centered or offset. Eve side requires a stronger header (load bearing
wall) Gable end non-load bearing.
Steel or steel insulated are the most common. Choices include the type
of insulated door (R rating), glass or no glass, width and height.
Most common for 8ft wall, 9W x 7H, 16W x 7H.
Sizes are 9 ft, 12 ft, 16
ft, 18 ft wide.
7 ft and 8 ft high.
8 ft high requires 9 ft side wall.
- Service door(s) Type (common
steel insulated), size 32" or 36" wide. Glass or no glass
may be determined by the crime rate in your area.
- Windows and location may also be
determined by the local crime rate. Vinyl single hung and sliders are
the most common.
- Line of sight: A good rule is to
have windows and service doors in line of sight from the house. If an
intruder thinks that they may be observed they are less likely to
attempt a forced entry.
- In colder areas a steeper roof pitch
has less snow build up and a longer shingle life. You may want to
match the pitch of your home. 4/12 is a normal pitch. 4 inches of rise
per 12 inches of run. Steeper pitches require more material and
therefore cost more. See
Roof Pitches here.
- Siding types: common types are
vinyl, wood and hardboard. 4/4 vinyl is the most popular, T-111 pine
or fur is a popular wood siding, and 4' x 8' sheets and 8" lap
hardboard siding. Other sidings include cement board.
- Shingles: standard 25yr three tab
and architectural are the most common.
- Overhangs: Overhangs should be
used but are not needed as much as a home. Large overhangs increase
the cost. Six inch gable and eight inch eve are good for garages and
- Location of options: Your garage
plan should place windows, service doors, OHDs at least 12 inches, 18
inches preferred from
corners and from each other.
at some garage plan styles.